Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
